Our intention had been to pass through the Russian border, sleep in “no man’s land” and then enter Mongolia first thing on Tuesday morning. However, our plans were foiled by an extremely keen-to-get-home-for-the-night bunch of Mongolian border police. We were whisked through (without the required photocopies of passport and vehicle docs) and even managed to persuade them that our “AA Insurance (wink!) was valid for Mongolia.
By seven, we (Us, Bruno, David from Switzwerland and a German couple doing same journey) were in Mongolia! Almost immediately, the scenery was very different- we saw our first Yak! (who exactly designed those?) and of course the roads were very different too. The tarmac ended at the Russian border and we weren’t to encounter any more until about 400km -4 days later! We drove just a short distance, parked for the day and toasted our arrival with Sven and Monica.
Our planned route was to be the “Northern Route”-apparently more scenic but we were aware that the roads may be poorer than the more commonly used southern route. We also had an advantage- a very useful set of tracks and GPS co-ords from a guy who did this last year (Fernweh).
Within just 20kms from the border, we were already beginning to appreciate his guidance as when the following day we set off- heading for Lake Ureg Nur. The dramatic route took us through a steep-sided gorge-enabling us to get glimpses of the Yurts, people, horses and sundry other animals which have made this river valley their summer home. We were going well, following the “track” pretty accurately until around mid-day we hit a pretty major obstacle. A fairly large river crossed our track. Though not terribly deep, it was wide and fast flowing. If we could have been sure that no other such rivers were to follow, we might just have tried it but with insufficient knowledge, we decided that we would have to go “THE LONG WAY ROUND!”-this meant a detour around the small lake Achit NUr (Did Ewan and Charlie do this too?). So off we set, heading towards the village and deciding not to follow the very rough track but to take a direct route across some “green”.Mmmmmm-big mistake! The “green” turned out to be a bog and within minutes, Bruno, who was up in front, was up to his axles in mud and well and truly stuck.
We attempted all the tried and trusted methods of removing a heavy vehicle from thick, slimy mud-digging out under the wheels for sand mats, letting air out of tyres, raising the body with jacks- but alas, it was to no avail. The guy from the nearby Yurt said he could get us a “machine” (lorry) to pull him out for around 25,000MNT ($20) but though we went off in search of one, none could be found or at least, none that were willing to try it! One final chance then- Phil decided that it was safe enough to get the truck within the tow-rope distance as long as we could have mats behind our wheels where needed. First attempt-Failed! However, the second time, with much effort, the Toyota was finally free. We drove tiredly back to the nearby river to clean up and park for the night. Only to be awoken around midnight by a Mongolian Tractor driver who offered to pull us across the river! At night?-not likely! After much persuasion, he finally left and we were left in peace to sleep.
We struck off the next morning, this time taking the track, not the shortcut through the bog. We passed through the seemingly deserted, former industrial town of Nogonoor and continued on through stunning desert scenery for many kilometres. We saw no one-not a soul, except for (and rather strangely) a single horse in the middle of the desert. We camped in a ridge of mountains and watched the magnificent sun set over the desert behind us.
Continuing the following day, we eventually passed the small lake Achit Nuur and continued along the exceedingly uneven and bumpy track (incidentally marked as a main road on the map). Our aim was to camp on the shores of the larger lake –Ureg Nuur, but our intentions were foiled by squillions of mosquitoes. We beat a retreat back a couple of kilometres and were once again able to climb a small hill behind us and watch the sunset over the lake. Whilst there, we were visited by a father and his two sons on horseback. Ever curios, they inspected the truck meticulously but eventually left. Only to return again an hour or so later on a motorbike with a broken headlamp! Ever patient, Phil did a quick repair and once again they were on their way. We awoke at 7pm the following morning to find them back for a final inspection! I did get a quick ride on one of the sturdy little Mongolian horses though!
Ulaangom was our next destination. We believed that they might have internet and wanted to restock if possible. In Mongolia the idea of food shopping is very unlike the European experience. Small shops sell only Chinese plastic rubbish and packets of cakes!
We were surprised to find, when we did finally arrive, that they not only had Internet, but that it worked (was cheaper than Russia too) and there was not only a supermarket, but quite a large open air market too. A short visit only, we decided to return the following day to upload new piccies/diary to the website and visit the market and we drove just outside the town to sleep on a large open and very windy plain.
Much of the following day was indeed spent by Phil at the internet café and by me exploring the market. Though the range of foodstuffs was very limited, i.e. potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and onions are all the veg on offer and the only bread available anywhere tasted like last week’s. It was interesting however, to see the imported Chinese foods on offer. Plenty of noodles of all descriptions, soy sauce, blocks of green tea etc. The range of clothing was that which you can find on any market in the world it seems, though I did spot some rather funky, tooled and coloured Mongolian riding boots.

I just returned to the truck only to find that yet again, we have a flat tyre and so now (as I write this) I await Phil’s return, hopefully with the tyre repaired..