PART II

Whilst I sat awaiting Phil’s return I was joined by a “tourist” We started chatting and began what was to be a lovely friendship with the Austrian couple, Hans-Georg and Elizabeth. They had spent a few days in Ulangom and were anxious now to leave the city as they had a bad experience a few days earlier and needed some “space” from the ever curious Mongolian culture. Within an hour or so Phil had returned with the repaired tyre and they accepted our invitation to travel with us for a while as it seemed that we were on the same route and itinerary.
Our intention was to drive up in to the mountains and find a spot recommended by L.P,- however, due to a rather ambiguous piece of writing on their behalf, we failed to find it. We did secure a good campsite though and whilst Phil changed tyres once more, we were visited by curious camels, apparently attracted to the noise of the compressor.
After another short visit to the Internet café to upload the rest of the photos the following day, we left Ulangom and headed for the hot-springs near the lake – Khyargas Nuur. The track was, as ever, very rough and bumpy but we finally arrived in a rain-storm and failing to find the hot-springs, decided to camp just on the shore of the lake.
We were to stay camped by this lake for three nights- though we didn’t find the hot-springs, it proved to be a fabulous camp spot. Having moved the truck a little lower and nearer to the “beach” it was just a short walk to the crystal clear (though slightly salty) lake in which we swam frequently. Just under the truck was a cliff which gave a sheltered spot perfect for Hans-Georg and Elizabeth’s tent. And the bonus - no curious Mongolians visiting us. It was quite perfect!
When we finally left, we thought that we would be very lucky to find such a good place again. Whilst this wasn’t strictly true, we found very many lovely places to camp- in the mountains, on riverbanks, under pine forests and by other lakes. None yet have compared with “our” lake for the warmth and clarity of water and absolute solitude.
about two fun-filled weeks later, we reached Tsetserleg-just in time for the Naadam Festival. Unfortunately due to the irresistible urge that Elizabeth and I had to taste the “Home-baked goodies” of the Fairfield restaurant, we missed the opening ceremony. However we did make it to the field later, in time to watch the weird capers that is “Mongolian Wrestling” Grown men, flapping their arms to resemble eagles and then grasping each others pants in an effort to bring the other man down. The atmosphere was laid back and it felt like being transported into some “Wild-West” cowboy town, where everyone (even girls here) was on horseback. We returned to Fairfield to spend the night (Phil wanting to do a few maintenance tasks the following day).
We left Tsetserleg around 3p.m. the following day but within about 20km, the left front driver’s wheel began to make strange noises. Further inspection by Phil and H-G and it seemed that the wheel bearing was going. We decided to continue on- in the hope of reaching Hahorin, where hopefully we could repair or at least patch up. However, this wasn’t to be. The next day we got only as far as Hotont (35km short of Hahorin) before the decision was made that it would be foolish to continue. Fortunately, we had stopped near to a “garage” and it wasn’t too long before it was arranged to park the truck up in the safe-compound of a seemingly trustworthy local AND be offered an overnight taxi ride to Ulaanbaatar. (which was still 400+km away), in an effort to secure the part the following day and then hopefully return to the truck.
NOT QUITE! We did indeed get to U.B. (in the most unreliable, busted suspension, faulty starter-motor car) of the mechanic. But after several hours of a thorough search of all of the auto-parts shops and the car markets, the part remained elusive. We decided that the only option would be to stay in U.B. and try to locate the part ourselves –either locally or from Europe. We headed, tired and a little dispirited to the Oasis guest house, where we would spend the next nine days. Phil contracted a particularly nasty bug which laid him low for the first few days, but in the meantime, myself and Edde (who we were surprised to find was here!) scoured the city for the wheel bearing. Eventually we were to get four flown in from China (courtesy of the very helpful Tulga) and two sets DHL’d from Holland by a very friendly Dutch motor-biker. (This one still to be received as of 28th July!).
U.B. turned out to be a nicer place than I’d first thought. We ate at a “Mexican-Indian” restaurant a couple of times (highly recommended). Met up with H-G and Elizabeth a few times, discussed “travelling” with a diverse assortment of bikers who seemed to end up at Oasis due to one disaster or another, slept in a Ger (finally!), went motor biking to “Hotel Mongolia”, extended our visas and generally had a pretty good time. Having spoken to the guys who had passed through the guest house, it seemed that our problems were slight. The three Dutch guys were having to ship their bikes back to Europe after failing to extend their double-entry Russian visa into a multi-entry and an American who was waiting his friend to arrive from Chita (who had been waiting for DHL to deliver parts for over 4 weeks-thus completely changing their itinerary.) We also heard about some Germans whose car had broken down in the West, secured a breakdown truck to get it back to U.B. but on the way it fell off the back of the truck (we don’t know what happened next!)
I was not looking forward to having to catch a mini-bus back to Hotont and so we were very fortunate to be able to catch a lift back to the truck with Tulga who just happened to be going that way!
Within a couple of hours of our return, Phil and an assortment of mechanics had the bearing replaced, the wheel back on and we were moving once again.
The decision now- should we return slowly back to U.B. or take the route we had initially planned-down south into the Gobi desert?
So Gobi desert it was then!- we headed south after a brief stop to look around the ancient city of Kharakorum.
And later that afternoon- the other wheel bearing went too!
But of course this time we were equipped with another, so on our arrival at the town of Arvayheer, Phil, amazingly, single-handedly, stripped off the wheel, replaced the wheel bearing and we were even able to drive a short distance that night!
The drive through the desert proved to be an excellent decision. The roads-not nearly as bad as expected, allowed us to cover over 400km in two days, which is pretty much of a record for us. We spent an enchanting night in the peace of some small sand dunes, where the silence was deafening and the only other inhabitants were lizards, beetles and the odd bat at dusk. Our destination was “the Flaming cliffs” and the alleged site of many, many dinosaur fossils. In the 1920’s, an American Palaeontologist had discovered over 100 dinosaur skeletons (including the famous “fighting dinosaurs which we had seen at the natural History museum in U.B.) We didn’t actually find any- though we decided that we wouldn’t know a dinosaur fossil if we saw one. And, on our way there, a rattling noise, which turned out to be a bit missing from the brake housing was also repaired with a scrap of tin and a screw (how’s that for resourcefulness?).
The flaming cliffs-large red sandstone cliffs rising out of the desert plains, were impressive, but not impressive enough to make us want to stay. We continued on our way, heading for “Vulture’s Mouth Gorge” just 40km west of Dalandzadgad.
The gorge was lovely-very green and one of the most “inhabited-by-animals” places that we have visited. After a short walk through the ice-canyon (there is ice in it for 6-8 mths per year) and getting caught in a heavy rain-storm, we returned to the truck for tea and a change of clothes. Whilst we waited, we were fascinated by the tiny creatures that emerged after most of the tourists have gone. Many desert finches faught over the breadcrumbs I’d put out, but funnier still were the scurrying gerbils and the “fierce” Mongolian rock mice (about the size of a guinea pig but with round ears). The rock mice were determined not to allow anything else near the crumbs and did “wall of death” circuits around the rocks and jumped into the air, turning at the same time. We were entertained for over an hour by these small creatures. The rain continued overnight and this made our exit even more dramatic. A little further up the gorge is a very narrow –i.e. just cms wider than the truck-gap through which to drive through the 10m high rock walls. Added to this, you are also driving through a river, albeit a fairly shallow one. A tight squeeze indeed, but we made it and continued along our way, avoiding the deep channels cut by the impending rainwater washing down from the mountains.
The route from here was fairly straightforward-just continue due north until we hit U.B. The scenery was one of vast, arid, desert steppe. It was totally, utterly deserted for hundreds of kilometres. At the bottom of a steep hill we passed two young cyclists on a tandem. We stopped at the top of the hill, put the kettle on and waited for them to arrive. They were two young Germans who had tried to cycle down to the Gobi and failed and were now on the 600+km ride back. I had to admire their strength and determination to stick out such a journey-the roads are bad enough when dry! Anyway, we parted company (having recommended Oasis to them) and left. The road was getting increasingly muddy and we were beginning to experience the sensation of being on ice. And indeed, all was going well until . . . . . . . . . . .
We hit a patch of mud. The truck started to slide sideways, with Phil fighting his hardest to control the skid. However, what happened was inevitable. We hit the side of a rut which was placed in such a position to tip us over . . .and tip we did! over onto the side, then onto the roof. It all happened incredibly quickly and neither of us could actually remember turning upside down. My first recollection was Phil reaching in through the side window and helping me out. We stood there reeling but very fortunately with hardly a scratch despite the extensive damage to the roof. Within minutes, on a road which had seemed deserted, two vehicles arrived to our rescue-one of them being a landcruiser with a handy winch! After a couple of attempts, we were pulled back up onto our wheels and after five minutes Phil was also able to start the engine. The truck looked in a very sorry state with a crushed roof, no windscreen or side window, scratched and covered in mud. However, it was going and wrapping ourselves up in blankets and gloves (why was this the coldest day we’d experienced in Mongolia??) we were able to limp the 150km or so back to U.B. and a very warm welcome back at Oasis. A couple of strong coffees, large vodkas and a hot shower and we were beginning to feel a little better.
The following day Phil and Rene went off to find out if they could get some repairs done. It seemed that it could be done but at a cost - $4000-5000 and about 2 months! No good at all. Bill, our American friend from Winsconsin, insisted that we could find something better, quicker and cheaper and so he and Phil headed out just along the main road. Within ½ km a local fabricator was found who beat the hell out of the side panels and straightened and welded the crumpled side pillar. A couple of days later we also had new windscreen and side window (they are able to make them to fit here!) And the total cost of all of this?- just $300. And in less than one week!

On Monday the 13th August, we finally left U.B. for the last time and headed north along good tarmac, towards the border. Reaching it a little late, we decided to park for the night and attempt it the following day. A good plan but alas, a slow start meant that we didn’t reach the gates until around 9.30a.m by which time there was a considerable queue. We sat and waited . . . and waited . . . and waited (during which time all of the lorries were allowed in but only about 3-4 cars. Finally at around 4.30 we were called through the first gate, only to wait for another hour at the second one. At 5p.m. we were told that the Russian border was closed for the day. However about an hour later, we were called through and got all our paperwork stamped for exit. Now this is the weird bit because they knew the Russian border was closed so why did they process our exit. We were not allowed to sleep in “No man’s land” and were sent back through the gate to be told that we would have to repeat the process the next morning!!! AAAAAAAArrrrrggggghhh-you need the patience of Joab to do these border crossings. However, the next morning we were first in line and everything went smoothly, allowing us to enter Russia once again on 15th August.

UlaanBaatar – the pro’s:
The Black market (not an illicit trading place but a vast market selling absolutely everything from Gers (& furniture) to second hand car parts.
Los Bandidos-great Mexican Indian restaurant serving the best Nachos I’ve tasted.
Oasis showers-always piping hot and copious quantities of water.
The French Bakery-cappucino, croissants and free WiFi.
Girls-the Mongolian girls are very easy on the eye.
The taxis-just hold out your hand and someone will stop. Local car drivers supplement their income. It’s a great way to get to meet people but often the vehicles are less than roadworthy.

The cons:
Pickpockets and thieves (we had camera stolen from under our noses and I actually caught a guy with his hand in my pocket)
The smell- (is this the most polluted city in the world?)
The dog’s chorus-if you are awake around four thirty in the morning you have the joy of every dog in the city joining in a rousing chorus. They only stop when a train passes through and they can’t hear each other.