Turkmenistan at last! 

Our first night in Turkmenistan, sleeping in the Custom’s Port car park proved to be short and uncomfortable due to the heat and the mosquitoes. Just before we left, we said good-bye to our friend the Turkish Truck driver whom we had met on the boat. He had been just as frustrated as we were not to be getting to Turkmenistan.
We made a quick circular tour of Turkmenbashi to stock up on bread, cheese and diesel. Phil was eager to fill up both tanks (nearly 120litres), which we did. And the grand cost of this? Approximately 36000 Manet . . . .
    .... . . .. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .....         About one and a half dollars!

We drove and drove . . . . . and drove. We had to cover nearly 600km to reach Ashgabat, on some of the worst roads that we had driven so far. Stopping briefly for lunch at a roadside café, we were surprised when we were passed by ‘Putins Cavalcade’. The Russian President was in town and making his way to Ashgabat. (Also the reason that we hadn’t been able to get a hotel room in Turkmenbashi the previous night).We finally arrived after a 13hour drive, around 11p.m. at our hotel for the next two nights.

The following morning, Phil and I set off to explore the city by bicycle. If you happen to read the Lonely Planet beforehand, you may get the impression that this is a truly bizarre city that was (until December) ruled by a truly bizarre president.
Both are true . . . to an extent.
The central administrative buildings, parks and even the apartment blocks are made of gleaming white marble. The fountain lined parks, filled with rose gardens, are immaculate. We actually rather liked it!
The former President, Niyazov, (The Turkmanbashi) was a bit of an egotist to say the least. He had a huge gold statue erected in the main square, which rotates to follow the sun, he renamed all of the days of the week and the months of the year after his friends and family, and he wrote a book (well two actually) which he proclaimed to be “The third most important book after the Quoran and the Bible.” The Ruhnama is read by all, in fact it is part of the school curriculum and children are tested on it!
We purchased our copy after having visited the ‘Russian Bazaar’ to buy one or two select items for a picnic lunch.
Somewhat reluctantly, Phil agreed to accompany me to the Carpet Museum. We ended up spending over two hours with an extremely informative guide-it was fascinating to learn about the methods, the symbolism and the history of these beautiful carpets.

The following morning (Tuesday) over breakfast in the hotel’s Chinese restaurant (bizarrly playing 'jingle bells' too loud), we awaited news of David and Ingrid’s visa and negotiated a different deal (route) with Stantours. Due to the lateness of the ferry, D & I’s visa was due to expire before they could even have chance to exit the country. After many hours and much fraught negotiation with Antonina it was decided that we no longer would  travel North through the desert to Nukus, but east, through the ancient city of Merv. We all agreed that it would be a far less stressful drive. We left about 4p.m. to arrive at the Hotel Rakhat in Mary at around 10.30p.m. and headed straight for bed.

The city of Merv, which we visited the following morning, is one of central Asia’s greatest historic cities. It’s a huge site of ruined mud-brick buildings, spread over 100sq.kms. The oldest part of the site dates from around the C6th B.C. Sadly it was decimated by the ‘Mongol Hoardes’ in 1221. (Each soldier had received instructions to decapitate 3-400 people). The site has a melancholic sadness about it and is now inhabited only by birds, snakes and camels.

On Thursday morning we set off early in order to do 290 or so kms to the border, at which we arrived by 2p.m.
More paperwork! But not too bad and we got away with only spending about $45 to get out and in to Uzbekistan! (what a relief - and so easy - no paperwork !)
By 6 p.m. we were on the road again!!

 

The costs of all this:
Exit Azerbaijan
            New visas for Azerbaijan            -$  80
            Ferry ticket- passengers             -$100
            Ferry ticket – vehicle                 -$150
            Toll for bridge                          -$  10
            “Captain’s Bribe”                      -$  50

 

Entry Turkmenistan:
            Visas                                       $162
Green cards                                          $  24
Disinfectant                                         $  10
Vehicle                                                $161   We were overcharged for fuel “compensation”
Bridge                                                 $  10
+fee to Stantours for the tour and guide.
Exit Turkmenistan:
            Bridge                                      $12 (it’s a superior bridge!!)
                ( + “Unknown fee" - 100,000AZM)  

It had been a very expensive country to enter and travel through. However our impressions of the country were good. The people, once again, extremely friendly (especially after Georgia and Azerbaijan). Ashgabat- immaculately manicured and smelling of roses, Merv – well worth the visit and Aylar, our vivacious, feisty and helpful guide who couldn’t do enough for us and retained her sense of humour even when negotiations reached their height.